New York Fashion Week is over and there is already a collective sense of the vision for Fall 2009 fashion. A handful of designers including Nicole Miller added a tougher edge to their collections in an effort to fight off the negative effects of the current economic recession. Others chose to fast-forward completely and emerge themselves into the future with space-age designs and futuristic creations.
Here’s a recap of the shows:
Nicole Miller
The collection included long sleeve dresses, short minis with a belted waist and a black opaque tight, and of course a strapless, satin little black dress.
Aside from a few exposed zippers and some pop colors of red the collection appeared to be very somber and functional. Even the color palette of the collection was notably toned down from what we have seen in the past including black, jewel-tone purple and burgundy. Hair was pin-straight and parted down the center. Models wore blue eyeshadow and a nude lip.
Alexander Wang
Black, White and Slate Grey colors dominated Alexander Wang’s Fall 2009 Collection. Key items included black, lace-up boots, crisp leather jackets, a cacoon coat that had morphed itself into a cardigan and a black reptile blazer. Many of the pieces were menswear inspired including a crisp, asymmetrical white-collar shirt, a tweed suiit and a black blazer without a lapel.
Zac Posen
Sweet and Sophisticated are the words that best describe the Fall 2009 Zac Posen collection. Structured dresses were the focus and the mood was very 1930’s glam. Many of the designs featured exaggerated shoulders while others simply showcased deep v-necklines. Colors for the collection consisted of Metallic Gold, Grey, Teal-Blue, Purple and burnt orange. There was also an array of small-scale floral prints. Hair was pinned up and in some cases adorned with a braided crown. Models wore a smokey eye with an orange-pink lip and black nail polish.
Marc Jacobs
Big hair played a major role in Marc Jacob’s collection…then again so did printed leggings, printed scarves and elbow-length gloves. Key items included a high-waisted pinstripe trouser, a metallic gold dress with short sleeves, a full-body fish net leotard and a pink blouse with exaggerated sleeves paired with a pencil skirt. Hair was over the top and included faux hawks, high ponytails and a clever twist to the pompadour. Models wore dramatic eyes in a rainbow or colors including yellow, blue and black.
BCBG Max Azria
Metallic tights paired with voluminous dresses played a major role in the collection for Max Azria. Playful stripes, dramatic zippers and carefully draped fabrics were among the key items in the show. Additional noteworthy looks included a zippered cacoon coat, a series of color-block dresses and a crisp, white blazer.Models wore casual ponytails and minimalist makeup.
Oscar De La Renta
The Fall 2009 collection for De La Renta was polished and on-point. Colors were vibrant (which was a nice change from the rest of the NY Fashion Week shows) and silhouettes were feminine and sophisticated. Key items included a satin trouser, a leather pencil skirt and a bronze/metallic dress. Accessories included skinny belts. Models wore their hair pulled off the face in a bouffant up-do with thick eyebrows and a matte pink lip.
Charlotte Ronson
The Fall 2009 Charlotte Ronson collection felt very rock-n-roll from the leather jackets to the heavy hardware belts. There were dresses with cut-outs, a series of outfits featured buffalo plaid, a floral dress worn under a black corset and (my favorite item) a zip front pant suit with epaulets. Models wore their hair pulled back in a tight ponytail with dark lipstick and 80’s inspired earrings.
DKNY
Many described the DKNY fall collection as “grown-up” and “polished”. I would describe it as “practical” and maybe even a little bit somber despite the splashes of animal prints sprinkled throughout the collection. The color story played heavily on lipstick red, black and charcoal grey. Dominant patterns included houndstooth, horizontal stripes and buffalo plaid. The hour-glass shape played a major role in the collection through pencil skirts and fitted dresses. A heather grey pantsuit also made an appearance at the end of the show. Models wore their hair half-up with a clean, center part. Makeup included black eyeliner, bronzer and a pink lip.
Elie Tahari
You can’t help but fall in love with Elie Tahari’s fall collection. It’s fun, feminine and it’s a welcome escape from the current economic recession. Key pieces included a ruffled blouse, a cheetah print coat, a yellow satin tank and a seamless, camel-colored coat. Models work their hair pulled up with a smoky eye and a nude lip.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim took us back to the 70’s with his Fall 2009 Collection, which was nice considering everyone wants to be “anywhere but here”. A hot-pink satin blouse paired with burnt sienna polyester pants looked better suited for a roller-rink rather than a runway show. Mr. Lim’s take on the pantsuit for Fall consisted of a charcoal grey suit with chest flaps and cargo pockets, topped with a drawstring waist. Dominant colors for the collection included white, plum, charcoal gray and mauve. Models wore their hair in a short bob with clean makeup and a nude lip.
